Mirissa sits above a deep-water canyon where the continental shelf drops sharply offshore, and between November and April blue whales, sperm whales and spinner dolphins are reliably sighted within twenty kilometres of the harbour. It is one of the most accessible whale watching destinations in the world. Beyond whale season, Mirissa settles into a calm, palm-fringed beach town with a cosmopolitan café culture and excellent local seafood. The pre-dawn boat departure – heading out into the dark as the first light comes up on the ocean – is one of Sri Lanka’s most memorable early mornings.